Solo Beginner Hiker: 3 Days in Big Bend/Terlingua
The amount of mental space West Texas takes up in my daydreaming hours is significant.
Its nature is arguably the most beautiful part of the state, and Marfa has been a unique place for me to find both peace and inspiration. To say the vibes are high is an understatement. 🤍✨
Big Bend National Park is on the border of Texas and Mexico, and is the most remote of all 61 national parks. It’s made up of multiple basins filled with campgrounds, trails, and natural features. When I first heard about this park, it was overwhelming - I really believed Big Bend was for seasoned hikers and campers who’d been on many other backpacking trips.
But that’s not the case, and I want to encourage you!
You CAN visit Big Bend as a beginner, solo hiker, and have a fulfilling, comfortable, and safe trip during COVID.
Here are my Top 3 tips for being a first time hiker at a national park:
Quality Shoes
This one is absolutely critical. I would NOT have made it through any of the hikes I tried (even the “easy” ones without my hiking boots. These are the first pair I’ve ever owned, and I LOVE them. They fit true to size, and I bought them during tax free weekend at Academy! I know you can go to REI and specially fitted, but honestly, I just didn’t want to overthink it on this first pair. These felt good in the store, and they felt good on the trail. This is also the only piece of gear I’d recommend you invest in for this trip - everything else is optional, and you can make do with what you have.
It looks like they might not sell the backpack I used anymore, but this is the same size, and is by the same brand. I found my original backpack at Target!
Food & Water
Pack enough food for the WHOLE day when going out on the trail, regardless of how short or easy it is.
Here’s what I packed:
1 liter of water,
1 liter of coconut water (electrolytes)
bag of beef jerky
…this was more than enough to sustain me on the 6 hour hike. You don’t want to have to use the restroom on the trail, and you can eat real food after!
3. Make a Friend
When you’re alone on the trail and see another hiker, don’t be afraid to engage them and ask to keep an eye on each other. I was the only solo female hiker I saw over my entire stay, and there were very few female hikers, period. I did end up pacing with another young solo male hiker, and after passing each other for a few hours, eventually caught up to each other and decided to holler if we needed help.
People are friendly, and other solo hikers could use the support as well.
Now, for how it came together at the amazing Big Bend National Park in West Texas:
recommended Beginner Trails
Both of these trails are in the Chisos Basin. It’s about a 40 minute drive from the park entrance and once you begin to enter the basin, the road winds around the mountain providing really beautiful experience.
Window Trail (6 miles)
South Rim/Northeastern Trail (~15 miles | 2,000ft elevation)
This trail was brutal, and it took me 6 hours (!) to finish. I have never walked for that long, or up that high. The elevation really sneaks up on you - this trail is not to be underestimated! The view is stunning, so if you have a whole day, I’d highly recommend. But pack snacks and water!
Another tip: To get to Emory Peak (the top of the mountain), you have to veer off the South Rim trail, onto the Pinnacles trail. It’s actually shorter than the Northeastern Trail route I took, but there was NOT signage noting which offshoot would lead to the peak!
Trails I didn’t do, but were recommended by other hikers in my campground:
Balanced Rock (2 miles)
Lost Mine Trail (5 miles)
This trailhead has limited parking and was full everyday by 10am. If you want to do this trail, I suggest you do it FIRST thing at sunrise, so you aren’t left without any way to get onto the trail
The National Park Service also has their recommendations once COVID is no longer an issue.
Where to Stay
I stayed in an AirBnb tent hosted by Big Bend Glamping.
It was a remote campground with a few tents, a trailer with WiFi :), a fire pit and plenty of camp chairs. It sounds sparse, but it was truly beautiful and talking with other campers was a treat. If you want to truly unplug, this is a great choice (there is signal in Big Bend NP, but there is NOT signal out here). The night sky is just beautiful, and you get an experience you wouldn’t surrounded by 20+ other campsites.
If you haven’t used Airbnb before, you can book through this link to save $65 on your booking!
Exploring Outside the Park: Terlingua, ghost town
Outside the national park is a small (ghost) town called Terlingua.
It’s a real mining town that was abandoned when the market for mercury disappeared. Sights include the Starlight Theatre (which had live music pre-COVID), a spooky cemetery, and the Terlingua Trading Post, originally the old company store of the Chisos Mining Company before the town was deserted.
I happened to find some delicious food and vibes in town, and highly recommend a visit:
Lunch: Espresso Y Poco Mas
I stopped in town the first day for lunch after my hike. This place had a delicious breakfast burrito and an iced latte. They also had reliable wifi on their patio so I could have a few video meetings! The view was stunning and the vibes were beyond peaceful. 🤍
Another must visit, especially in the warmer months, is the POOL at the Terlingua Ranch Lodge.
Terlingua Ranch Lodge - POOL
The lodge is where you can shower for a small fee (there are no showers at the campground). It also happens to have a beautiful pool set in the middle of the mountains! It was perfect after a day of hiking and despite being a bit crowded the day I went (it’s available to all who stay at the lodge along with Big Bend Glampers), it was a lovely respite.
Big Bend Tips:
October really was the best time to go - the weather was absolutely perfect. The second best time to go is Nov-Feb! Winter months are popular in the park - it all depends on your comfort camping in colder weather. Nothing some fleece-lined leggings can’t handle, though :)
Start your hikes EARLY. You don’t want to be hiking a challenging trail with the added stress of the scorching sun. Plan to wrap up around NOON, and leave the park for lunch :)
This trip will definitely be one you’d like to remember, but the shop in the Visitor Center doesn’t have a ton of cute shirts or souvenirs. If you’re open to it, here are a bunch of great options on Amazon:
COVID Note:
The following activities were left off my recommendations due to the inability to socially distance:
Hot Springs
Border crossing to Boquillas del Carmen
Hiking close to Emory Peak and seeing the mountain range driving into the region was so inspiring.
What’s the latest thing you’ve seen that’s blown you away?
You may also like my post about travel jewelry as you plan some time outdoors: Affordable Travel Jewelry.
*This post contains affiliate links. I may receive a commission for purchases made through links in this post with NO additional cost to you. Read my Disclaimer Policy for more details.
